I’ve been to many tropical places around the world, but I always felt that something was missing: too much development, too many party places, and not enough greenery. Finally, in Costa Rica, I’ve found what I’ve been looking for: a tropical paradise with a lush jungle, towering waterfalls, and so much wildlife that every day is a discovery.
After cancelling my hiking holiday to Peru due to health reasons, my boyfriend and I decided to still go to the second destination that we had planned for this trip, since we still needed a break from the Arctic and our holiday wasn’t refundable. And I’m glad that we did!
We spent a total of two weeks in Costa Rica, and we started by exploring the jungle.
LA FORTUNA
THE BASE FOR OUR JUNGLE ADVENTURES
The drive from San José to La Fortuna is an adventure in itself! Navigating bumpy, rain-slicked, and curvy roads in the dark wasn’t easy. Unless you are used to driving in stormy Arctic conditions, I wouldn't recommend doing this drive at night. Afterwards, we checked into a beautiful hotel located just steps away from all the main attractions:
NOAH’S FOREST BY TIFAKARA
The highlight of the hotel was the private jacuzzi, the swimming pool from where we spotted toucans flying, and the friendly and professional staff that treated us like special guests. It was by far the best hotel we have ever stayed at.
This is how we spent our 5 days in La Fortuna:
La Fortuna Waterfall
On our first day, we drove just 15 minutes from our hotel to the trailhead. Right from the starting point, we were treated to an amazing view of Cascada La Fortuna. The waterfall feels like a scene straight out of a movie as the water shoots 70 meters down from the vibrant green cliffside. To get to the foot of the waterfall, we took the 500 steps down into the lush wilderness.
The entrance fee is 20 USD/pax. Mistico hanging bridges
On our second day, a brief half-hour drive brought us to the entrance of Mistico Park. We spent the morning wandering through a lush forest teeming with wildlife on a beautiful 4 km loop. The entire trail was well-maintained and absolutely spotless. Walking high above the forest floor, we were rewarded with incredible panoramic views of the jungle from the hanging bridges.
The entrance fee is 36 USD/pax. Cappuccino WITH A VOLCANO VIEW at Raúl Castaño cafe’
On the way back, before reaching La Fortuna, we stopped at Café Raúl Castaño. The view from there is truly incredible—you can admire the active Arenal Volcano right in front of you while sipping a delicious cappuccino. However, a word of caution: my boyfriend got food poisoning later that same day, most likely from the chicken sandwich he ate here. While we can’t be 100% sure, our advice for visiting this beautiful spot is simple: skip the chicken, stick to the coffee, and you'll have a perfect time!
Zip lining in Arenal Park
After ziplining in Ecuador, we couldn’t wait to fly through the trees again in Costa Rica. With so many options available, we drove half an hour to the Arenal region and chose Sky Adventures for their iconic 7-zipline tour. Flying high above the jungle canopy with incredible views of the active Arenal Volcano was absolutely thrilling.
The only downside was the group size—being in a group of over ten people meant quite a bit of waiting between platforms. A smaller group would definitely have made the waiting time much shorter!
Afterwards, we tackled a beautiful 4 km hike through the park, where we were lucky enough to spot toucans flying, vibrant blue morpho butterflies, a pájaro bobo (motmot), and a curious pizote (coati) wandering through the wilderness.
Ziplining + hanging bridges hike: 130 USD/paxRio Celeste Waterfall
On our last day in the jungle, we drove two hours to Tenorio Volcano National Park to see the magical Río Celeste. We set out on a beautiful 6 km loop trail—complete with 253 stairs—navigating the winding paths to reach the park’s crown jewel.
Right near the beginning of the hike, you’ll find the stairs leading down to the falls. It can get pretty crowded on the steps since there isn't a dedicated viewing platform at the bottom.
Dropping 30 meters down a lush volcanic cliff, the waterfall feels like an optical illusion with its brilliant, turquoise water. It was a beautiful, photogenic grand finale to our time in the rainforest.
That said, if you're tight on time and need to prioritise, I actually preferred the ‘‘La Fortuna waterfall’’—but Río Celeste is still a stunning sight to see!
The entrance fee is 12 USD/pax. PUERTO VIEJO, THE CARIBBEAN
Moving from La Fortuna down to the Caribbean coast brought us to Puerto Viejo, a vibrant surf town with a distinct Afro-Caribbean and rasta-inspired culture. I originally chose this side of the country to escape the heavy October rains on the Pacific coast, hoping for drier weather. Instead, I found it to be one of the hottest and most humid places I’ve ever experienced!
If you prefer a more laid-back or activity-packed beach trip, I’d actually recommend heading to the western side instead—spots like Uvita or Santa Teresa offer plenty to do and a great coastal energy. As for Puerto Viejo, once you finish the initial day of exploring, the pace slows down quite a bit, which can feel a little boring if you're looking for non-stop action like me.
Jaguar rescue centre in Puerto Viejo
In Puerto Viejo, we visited the local animal rescue centre. I initially thought we could just walk in and look around on our own—and honestly, I was mostly excited about seeing the toucans and parrots! However, you actually have to join a guided tour to see everything. Even though we were stuck on a 90-minute guided tour, it was still interesting to hear the unique rescue stories behind each animal. Plus, knowing that the entrance fee goes directly toward supporting the animals made it feel like a truly worthwhile cause.
The entrance fee is 29 USD/pax. BACK IN THE RAINFOREST..
After just a few days in Puerto Viejo, the intense heat and humidity got the best of us. We found ourselves hiding out in our air-conditioned room, so we decided to cut our stay short to actually get out and explore. I would have loved to head over to Uvita on the west coast, but with an eight-hour drive and only a few days left in Costa Rica, it just wasn’t feasible. Instead, we chose a spot about two and a half hours away—retreating into the jungle rainforest nestled right between Puerto Viejo and San José.
ECOLIRIOS Boutique Hotel
We stayed at Ecolirios, an incredible eco-boutique hotel nestled right in the heart of the jungle. Our glass-walled room was spectacular, offering panoramic views of the rainforest straight from the bedroom—and even the bathroom! The property itself featured private walking trails through the jungle, a natural pool, small waterfalls, and even a sauna, making it feel like the perfect finale to our Costa Rican adventure. The only real challenge for me was watching the jungle come to life at night; we encountered a massive spider in the shower and another right outside the bathroom window. Thankfully, the bedroom itself was perfectly sealed off from the elements, making it a peaceful, relaxing haven. Because the area is much cooler than Puerto Viejo, the lack of AC wasn't an issue with the heat, though it did get a little humid at night.
The absolute highlight of our stay was booking the tour recommended by the hotel. We went on a short hike, flew down some incredible ziplines, and cooled off in a stunning waterfall that we had entirely to ourselves!
Our guide was truly amazing. Honestly, we preferred the ziplines here over the famous long ones in La Fortuna. Because we were the only ones on the tour, the whole experience felt completely seamless and exclusive. While we were swimming in the waterfall, our guide surprised us with a sweet pineapple. Then, on the way back, he made us fresh sugarcane juice while helping us spot all kinds of incredible wildlife—including my absolute favourite, toucans!
I highly recommend booking this activity, and I suggest staying at least two nights at the hotel to fully enjoy the surrounding nature.
It was the perfect, off-the-beaten-path experience to end our trip in the Costa Rican jungle.
Best of all, we got to see a bunch of toucans up close. Out of everywhere we've travelled so far, this was hands-down the best spot for bird watching.
THE RAINY SEASON
We travelled to Costa Rica at the end of October, which marks the tail end of the rainy season. Honestly, you shouldn't be afraid to travel during the shoulder season! It only rains sporadically for a few minutes in the afternoon, and the rain actually cools down the temperatures—which, trust me, is a massive relief. Plus, the rain is warm, so it’s nothing like getting caught in a downpour in Europe. In La Fortuna, it was around 28 degrees Celsius; while a bit humid, the weather was completely bearable. However, the Caribbean coast was a different story—it was extremely hot and humid, hitting 33 degrees with over 70% humidity. Unless you love melting in the heat, I’d highly recommend sticking to the cloud forests or the west coast instead! The best part about travelling in the off-season is dealing with fewer tourists and finding cheaper deals, though Costa Rica is still quite an expensive destination overall.
DRIVING IN COSTA RICA
I would only recommend renting a car if you are an experienced driver used to handling tricky conditions. The roads are in terrible shape, making a 4×4 necessary in Costa Rica. Definitely don't drive at night; there are no streetlights, so visibility is zero, which is honestly very dangerous on curvy roads.
However, the biggest hazards are the potholes and, especially, the speed bumps. They are completely unmarked and the same colour as the asphalt, which doesn't make sense. You could be driving the speed limit of 80 km/h, and suddenly—out of nowhere—there is a massive speed bump you won't see until it's too late. We went airborne so many times because they were invisible, which is why having a car with high clearance is essential. When renting a car, I would also recommend paying full insurance!
We also witnessed five car accidents during our 12 days in Costa Rica, just to give you an idea.
If you don’t want to rent a car, you can always take taxis, as I’ve heard the prices are quite reasonable. For covering long distances across the country, taking a domestic flight is another great alternative.
PAYMENTS & COSTS IN COSTA RICA
You can easily pay in USD or Costa Rican colones, and almost everywhere accepts cards—the only exception we ran into was a local laundry service. That said, keep in mind that Costa Rica is very expensive. Restaurant prices are on par with Europe, and in some places, they are even higher. Entrance fees for national parks, guided tours, and hotels are similarly pricey, so I would only recommend choosing Costa Rica if you have a comfortable budget.
There are plenty of cheaper alternatives, especially in South America. For instance, a country like Colombia offers a very similar tropical vibe but at about half the cost. However, the biodiversity in Costa Rica is truly out of this world; I have never seen so many animals and birds in any other place!
CONCLUSION
This holiday was truly special and came at the absolute perfect time for me. Costa Rica is the ideal destination if you love the jungle, endless greenery, and wildlife—it offers the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation.Thank you so much for reading! I hope you enjoyed following along on our journey. I’ll probably be making a YouTube video about our Costa Rica adventure in the coming months, so stay tuned for that!
